Everything, answered
Exterior Caulking & Window Resealing FAQ.
The questions homeowners actually ask us, answered the way we would answer them standing in your driveway — including the ones where the honest answer costs us the job.
- No sales script
- Real prices, on the page
- Honest answers, even when they cost us the job
Timing & symptoms
Is it time to reseal?
How often should exterior window caulking be replaced?
There is no single number, because it depends on the product that was used, the exposure, and how well the joint was prepared. Builder-grade acrylic on a south or west elevation can be finished in well under a decade. Professional silicone in a properly detailed joint is a multi-decade product. The practical rule: if your house is pre-1980 and the sealant has never been replaced, assume it is due.
What are the signs my window seals have failed?
A draft at the window edge on a windy day; water stains, blistered paint or soft wood on the sill; visible cracks or gaps in the bead; caulk you can lift with a fingernail; a bead that has shrunk away from one face; rising heating bills with no other explanation. Any one of these is worth a look before winter.
Is fogging between the panes a caulking problem?
No. Condensation inside the sealed glass unit means the factory seal on that unit has failed, which is a glass issue and needs the unit replaced. Resealing the perimeter of the frame will not clear it, and we will tell you that rather than sell you a reseal that cannot fix what you are seeing.
Is there a wrong time of year to do this?
Sealant needs a dry, clean joint and a workable temperature to cure properly, so we work with the weather rather than against it. Spring through autumn is the natural window in Ontario. We will move a day rather than gun a bead into a wet or frozen joint, and we will tell you why.
How the work is done
Method and materials.
Can you just caulk over the old caulk?
We will not. New sealant can only hold as well as the surface it is bonded to — bond it to a failed, brittle bead and it inherits that failure immediately. The old material comes out first, every time. It is the slow and expensive part of the job, and it is the entire reason a reseal lasts.
Do you remove all of the old caulking?
Yes. The failed bead is cut on both edges and pulled out along its full length, and the joint is then scraped and cleaned back to sound substrate before anything new goes in.
What is backer rod and do I need it?
Closed-cell foam rod pushed into a deep joint before sealing, so the finished bead ends up roughly half as deep as it is wide and bonds to two faces rather than three. Without it, a deep joint gives the sealant nowhere to stretch and it tears itself apart at the first hard freeze. We set it wherever the joint calls for it.
Silicone, polyurethane or hybrid — what do you use?
Roughly ninety-nine percent of our work is professional-grade DOWSIL silicone, because exterior perimeter joints move and sit in UV, and silicone handles both better than the alternatives. Where a specific joint genuinely calls for a different chemistry — a substrate silicone will not bond to, or a low-movement joint that must be painted — we use the right product for that condition and tell you which and why.
Will resealing stop my draft?
If the draft is coming through the joint between the frame and the wall, yes — that is exactly what the reseal closes. If air is coming through the sash itself, past worn weatherstripping or a failed operating seal, that is a window hardware issue and a perimeter reseal will not fix it. We will tell you which one you have.
Can I paint over the new caulking?
Please do not. Coatings will not bond to cured silicone and will peel off the bead, and painting it voids the workmanship warranty. If a joint needs to be painted, say so up front — we sequence those jobs paint-first and seal afterwards with a colour-matched bead, and where a joint genuinely has to sit under the paint film we use DOWSIL Contractors Paintable Sealant, a hybrid made to be coated.
Does the caulking match my window colour?
That is the intent. DOWSIL CWS comes in a broad colour range and we select against your frame or trim colour before the job rather than defaulting to white. Send us the paint code if you have it.
Do you seal weep holes?
No, and nobody should. The small open joints along the bottom course of a brick wall let the cavity drain and breathe. Sealing them traps water inside the wall assembly.
Pricing
What it costs.
How much does window resealing cost?
We price per opening, where every window and every door counts as one opening: basement and small windows $40, standard windows $80, single doors $100, double doors and garage openings $140. Sidelights, transoms and wide bays bill as an extra opening. Count your own openings in the estimator at the bottom of this page, or send us photos and let us count.
Does a bigger job cost less per opening?
Yes. From 21 openings every opening is $10 less than list. Under six openings it is $20 more and from 6 to 9 it is $10 more — the crew, ladders and sealant cost the same to bring out whatever the count. Jobs of 16 or more openings also get the pipes & vents reseal included.
Do you have a minimum job size?
Every job carries a minimum charge — $250 before HST, a little more when the job is made up of several small items — and every job books with a $250 deposit plus HST ($282.50) that comes off your invoice. Want us to come and look first? An in-person quote visit is $50 plus HST, paid when you request it.
Why are you more expensive than the other quote I got?
Almost always because of removal. A quote that assumes the new bead goes over the old one has taken the slowest, dirtiest part of the job out of the price. Ask any competing quote directly whether the old sealant is being removed in full — the answer explains most of the gap.
Do you charge for the estimate?
Quotes are free. Send photos and we will come back with a ballpark without anyone needing to be home; where a visit is warranted we will arrange one. If a leak investigation needs more than a look, we will tell you how that visit is priced before booking it, not after.
Warranty & logistics
Working with us.
What does the 10-year warranty actually cover?
Our workmanship. If the bead fails, cracks, pulls away or leaks because of how we applied it, we come back and fix it free. It is written, with the exclusions stated plainly rather than buried: structural or foundation movement, substrate failure behind the joint, normal UV ageing of the product itself, damage by other trades, and any bead that has been painted over or altered after we left. It covers application, and it ends at resale.
Do you work on condos or for property managers?
Yes. Recurring envelope sealing and leak work on multi-unit buildings suits how we are set up. Send the building and the scope and we will quote it directly.
Where do you work?
Across the Greater Toronto Area and the Niagara region — Etobicoke, Toronto, North York, East York, Mississauga, Oakville, Vaughan, Markham and Richmond Hill, plus Ancaster, Niagara-on-the-Lake and St. Catharines. The full service-area list is on the contact page.
Do I need to be home while you work?
No. A standard reseal is entirely exterior work and needs no interior access. We would like you there for the walkthrough at the end if you can be.
How long will the job take?
A complete whole-home reseal is one to two days on site for most properties — a single visit for the majority, two where the opening count or the access calls for it. Removal is the slow part. You get a firm duration with your quote once we have seen the elevation, and we book the whole scope rather than leaving a house half-sealed overnight.
What happens if something is wrong after the job?
Call us. That is what a written workmanship warranty is for. We keep photographs of the work and the product and date used on each job specifically so a callback can be triaged properly rather than argued about.
Instant estimate
Count your openings. See your price.
Every window and every exterior door is one opening, priced by its size. Count them yourself for an instant number, add any extras, and book with a $250 deposit (plus HST) — or send us photos of the house and we'll count them and reply with a firm quote.
While we are there
- Stand back far enough to get a whole wall in each shot.
- We count the openings ourselves and reply with a firm number — usually within one business day.
- Your photos stay with your quote request and are never published. Privacy.
Prices may change on sight of the job; if we change the price, your deposit is fully refundable. See the terms. Lift or scaffold work is quoted separately. A $250 deposit (plus HST, $282.50) books your date and comes off the invoice.
View cart & book- Written 10-year workmanship warranty
- Deposit fully refundable if we change the price
No payment at this step — you check everything in the cart before you book. Rather talk it through? Call (647) 524-6180
Where we work
Serving the GTA and Niagara.
We specialize in large and heritage homes where the original seals have failed. Proudly serving:
Including The Kingsway, Rosedale, Forest Hill, Lawrence Park, Lorne Park, Mineola, Hoggs Hollow, the Bridle Path, Kleinburg, Old Ancaster, Dundas and the Niagara wine country. Not on the list? Call — routing decides more than distance, and we cluster work by neighbourhood.
Ready when you are
Ready for a straight answer on your house?
Send photos of the joints you are worried about and we will tell you what is actually going on.