You feel a draft
Cold air at the window edge on a windy day is the most common tell — the joint between the frame and the wall is open.
10 yr
Written workmanship warranty
Our hero service · GTA & Niagara
The Royal Seal.
Exterior Window Resealing & Re-Caulking in Toronto & the GTA.
When the caulk around your windows cracks and pulls away, water and cold air walk straight in. We remove the failed sealant completely — never caulk over it — and re-seal every opening with professional-grade DOWSIL CWS silicone, tooled to a clean, lasting bead.
- Old caulk fully removed
- $40 to $140 per opening
- 10-yr written workmanship warranty
A+
BBB Accredited business
DOWSIL
DOWSIL CWS — no big-box caulk
300+
Properties sealed & under warranty
Is it time?
Six signs your window seals have failed.
Exterior caulk is a consumable — it hardens, shrinks and lets go, and on an older home the original bead may be decades past its service life. If you recognise any of these, your seals are already letting weather in.
Water stains or damp trim
Marks on the interior sill, blistered paint or soft wood below a window mean water is already getting past the seal.
Fogging between the panes
Condensation inside a sealed unit points to a failed glazing seal — we'll tell you honestly if that's a glass issue rather than a caulking one.
Cracked, shrunken or peeling caulk
Hairline splits, chalky white lines, or a bead you can lift away with a fingernail — the sealant has lost its flex and its grip.
Heating and cooling bills creeping up
Dozens of small open joints around a big old house add up to a permanent hole in the building envelope.
Mould, mildew or insects at the frame
Persistent damp in a joint feeds mould — and an open gap is an open door for wasps, ants and rodents.
Why a reseal, not a re-caulk
We don't caulk over the old stuff.
This is the single biggest difference between a reseal that lasts and one that fails by the second winter. New sealant needs to bond to clean, sound substrate — glass, aluminum, wood, brick or stone. Bonded to old, dead caulk instead, it can only be as strong as the failing material underneath it.
The shortcut
Caulking over
- New bead bonds to failed caulk, not to the building
- The old joint keeps moving and cracking underneath
- Traps moisture already sitting in the joint
- Builds up a thick, lumpy bead that looks wrong on a good house
- Costs less today, costs more when it's done twice
The Royal standard
A full reseal
- Failed sealant cut out completely, joint cleaned back to sound substrate
- Backer rod set where the joint is deep, so the sealant can flex properly
- Professional-grade DOWSIL CWS silicone with real adhesion to glass, aluminum, brick and stone
- Every bead tooled — a crisp, even line that belongs on the house
- Backed by a written 10-year workmanship warranty
See the difference
Cracked and chalky, or crisp and tooled.
A finished reseal should look deliberate — a clean, even bead that reads as part of the building, not a smear of white over a dark joint. These are our jobs, photographed on site: the failed joint on the left, the finished bead on the right.
- The old bead is gone first. Every one of these joints was cut back to sound substrate before anything new went in.
- Colour-matched DOWSIL CWS. The bead reads as part of the frame, not a repair.
- Hand-tooled. Compressed into the joint and finished to a consistent width, corner to corner.
Window sill — failed bead removed, reset and tooledBrick window, jamb — old bead cut out, new bead tooled frame to brickBrick window with grilles — old bead out, perimeter resealedBrick window head — old bead out, head joint resealedFrame to stone — open joint cut clean and resealed in a matching toneStone sill and header — joint rebuiltBasement window — surround resealed and refinishedStone window surround — perimeter joint resetBay window corner — stone-to-frame transitionStone step and landing jointGlass railing base and step joint
Real jobs, photographed on site. Tap a thumbnail to see another one.
How a Royal reseal runs
Done right, done once.
Same sequence on every opening, whether it's a basement awning window or a two-storey feature wall.
Assess & quote
We walk your openings — in person or from your photos — count them by size, and give you a clear written price before anything starts.
Work with care
We take care around glass, sills, brick, siding and especially your plants, and everything is cleaned up by the end of the day.
Remove the failed sealant
The old bead is cut and pulled out in full, and the joint is scraped and cleaned back to sound, dry substrate.
Prep and back the joint
Surfaces are cleaned for adhesion and closed-cell backer rod is set in deep joints so the new bead can stretch and compress the way it's designed to.
Seal with DOWSIL CWS
Professional-grade silicone gunned into the joint at the right depth — enough material to move with the house, not a cosmetic skim.
Tool, clean and walk it
Every bead is tooled to a clean profile, the work area is cleaned down, and we walk the whole house with you before we leave the warranty in your hand.
How long it takes: a complete whole-home reseal is one to two days on site for most properties — a single visit for the majority, two where the opening count or the access calls for it. We book the whole scope rather than leaving a house half-sealed overnight, and the silicone is weather-tight as soon as it skins over.
The product
Sealed with DOWSIL — not the $4 tube.
Around 99% of our work is done with DOWSIL, the professional silicone line specified on commercial buildings. It costs us more than the bargain acrylic sold by the case at the big-box store, and it's the reason a Royal reseal is still flexible and bonded years after a cheap bead has cracked and let go.
- It moves with the house. Stays rubber-flexible through Ontario freeze-thaw instead of splitting after a couple of winters.
- It won't chalk or craze under UV. Built for sun, wind-driven rain and ice — not a season of it, decades of it.
- It sticks where it should. Excellent adhesion to glass, aluminum, masonry, brick and concrete.
- Silicone isn't paintable. If a joint is going to be painted, we seal it with a paintable product instead — we'd rather tell you that than sell you a bead the paint will peel off.
Backed in writing
10 years on our work. In writing.
10
Year workmanship warranty
In writing. If our bead fails, cracks, pulls away or leaks because of how we applied it, we come back and fix it — free.
Our warranty covers application. Written exclusions apply for structural or foundation movement, substrate failure, damage caused by other trades, and any bead later painted or altered. Non-transferable at resale.
Straight answers
Window resealing questions.
Can you just caulk over the old caulk?
We won't. New sealant can only hold as well as whatever it's stuck to — bond it to a failed, brittle bead and it inherits that failure. The old material comes out first, every time. It's slower and it costs more in labour, and it's the entire reason a reseal lasts.
How do I know my window seals have failed?
Drafts at the window edge, water stains or soft wood on the sill, blistered paint, visible cracks in the bead, or caulk you can lift with a fingernail. On a pre-1980 home with the original sealant still in place, assume it's due — silicone and acrylic both have a service life, and decades is well past it.
Do you remove all of the old caulk?
Yes. The failed bead is cut and pulled out in full and the joint is scraped and cleaned back to sound substrate before anything new goes in. Where the joint is deep we set backer rod so the new sealant is the right depth to stretch and compress properly.
What does a window reseal cost?
We price by the opening, not by the hour — $40 for a basement or small window, $80 for a standard window, $100 for a single door and $140 for double doors, garage doors and other extra-large openings, where every window and every exterior door counts as one opening. The rate moves a little with the size of the job — a handful of openings costs a bit more per opening, a whole house a bit less — and every job carries a minimum charge. The estimator at the bottom of this page applies all of it for you, or send us photos and let us count.
Is there a minimum job size?
Yes. Every job carries a minimum charge — $250 before HST, a little higher when the job is made up of several small items — and the estimator builds it into the number you see. Every job books with a $250 deposit (plus HST) that comes off the invoice. A handful of openings costs a little more per opening because the set-up is the same whatever the count, so most people add the rest of the house while we are there.
What sealant do you use?
Professional-grade DOWSIL CWS silicone for around 99% of our work — the line specified on commercial buildings, not bargain acrylic caulk. It stays flexible through freeze-thaw, resists UV and weather, and bonds properly to glass, aluminum, brick and stone.
Can you caulk and then paint?
Yes, but not with silicone — silicone is not paintable, and paint applied over it will peel. Where a joint needs to be painted we use a paintable sealant made for it. On a caulk-and-paint job we'll tell you exactly which joints get which product.
What does the warranty cover?
Our written 10-year workmanship warranty covers our application: if the bead fails, cracks, pulls away or leaks because of how we installed it, we return and fix it at no charge. Written exclusions apply for structural or foundation movement, substrate failure, damage by other trades, and beads later painted or altered by others.
Do you work on heritage and century homes?
They're our specialty. Older homes have the most linear footage of joint, the most original sealant still in place, and the most to lose from water getting in. Where replacement isn't an option — heritage-designated windows, original wood casements — a proper reseal is the maintenance path.
Which areas do you serve?
Across the Greater Toronto Area — Etobicoke, Oakville, Mississauga, North York, Toronto, East York, Vaughan and Woodbridge, Markham and Richmond Hill — plus Ancaster, Niagara-on-the-Lake and St. Catharines in the Niagara region.